Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Asian Express (Mill Run)



Asian Express is a little Thai/Chinese restaurant in the Mill Run Shopping Center. You can't see it very well from Fishinger Road, so you'd never know it was there unless a friend told you about it. And I, Caspar Fine-Burger, am that helpful friend.

I first heard about Asian Express from a friend whose father had just opened a store next door selling video games and pogs.* The pog store is long gone, but Asian Express remains, because they serve very good food at reasonable prices with friendly service.

I stopped in today for a plate of cashew chicken with an egg roll and a Pepsi, for a grand total of $6.62. As I waited, I looked around the restaurant and remarked at how little it has changed over the years. Seven booths, original art on the northern wall (from the owner's daughters, perhaps?), photos of specialty dishes in an illuminated sign on the southern wall. The prices appear to be the same as they were in 1994. Soda is still 75 cents. The floors, trays, and tabletops were spotlessly clean. This led me to take the exceedingly rare (for me) step of putting a dollar in the TIPS jar at a serverless restaurant.

Five minutes later, my piping-hot order was ready. The menu cautions that the cashew chicken is "Thai Spicy" style, which means the brown sauce is considerably spicier than you'll find at most strictly-Chinese restaurants, and instead of chopped celery, there are lots and lots of onions. The chicken was lean and fully cooked, with nary a bit of gristle or fat to be found (are you listening, Cajun Big Easy?). The cashews were fresh, too - nothing ruins cashew chicken like cashews that are starting to turn.

The fried rice was flavorful enough to be tasty by itself, though it's better when mixed with the spicy brown sauce. The egg roll was a bit chewy and maybe a little heavy on the ginger, but still enjoyable.

So now you've been told about Asian Express. Come early or order to go (remember, there are only seven booths), but you'll get a lot for your money.

* What are pogs? http://www.badfads.com/pages/collectibles/pogs.html

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