Thursday, March 27, 2008

The Dog Joint (59 S. State St., Westerville)



You're probably wondering why the Dublin Grease Guide would review a restaurant located in Westerville. Ordinarily, we wouldn't. But there's nothing like The Dog Joint in Dublin, or anywhere else in greater Columbus for that matter. And if you've got a hankering for a really good hot dog, it's worth the drive.

The Dog Joint bills itself as "gourmet dogs and more." Gourmet hot dogs: what a brilliant idea. There's no shortage of gourmet hamburgers in this town, but if you want a really good hot dog, you're out of luck, unless you're at a Clippers or Jackets game. (I hear there's a Nathan's at the zoo, but I've never tried it, and I'm skeptical that the zoo food court provides true Nathan's quality.)

The first thing I noticed was the friendly staff. We were greeted with a friendly "hello" upon entering and a "bye, folks" on the way out. You can tell the difference between genuine friendliness and a phony friendliness script that was written in a corporate office and is spoken by some poor wage slave under duress, and this was the former. We're talking 1950's malt-shop friendliness, as seen on TV.

The second thing I noticed was the menu. You'd be advised to step out of line and study it for a few moments before ordering. You begin by choosing a bun (egg or honey wheat), then a method of cooking your dog (steamed or grilled), then choose the dog (beef, turkey, bratwurst, Italian sausage). Corn dogs also are available. Next, choose from a list of more than 40 toppings, including almonds, bacon, dried cranberries, and six kinds of mustard.

To simplify matters, The Dog Joint offers twelve specialty dogs, including the Windy City (yellow mustard, onions, sweet relish, tomatoes, pickles, sport peppers, and celery salt), the Aloha (bell peppers, crushed pineapple, bacon, brown sugar sauce, cinnamon, and almonds), and the Chuck Wagon (barbecue sauce, coleslaw, and pickles). If you like chili dogs, try the Messy Me (brown mustard, onions, chili, cheddar cheese).

Next, select a side: fries (plain, with cheese, or with chili and cheese), onion rings, baked beans, mac & cheese, coleslaw, applesauce, or potato chips. Finally, choose a drink: soda, iced tea (plain or southern sweet style), coffee, milkshakes, malts, floats, or something called a "lemon shake-up." Beer will be available soon, thanks to the sensible voters of Westerville who've approved a zoning variation.

If you've made it this far, get ready for the best hot dog you've had in years...maybe ever. Oh, I'm sure if you're from Back East, you'll claim you've had better, but you're lying. (Also, shut up about the Yankees already.) The Dog Joint uses Vienna Beef dogs from Chicago, and mine was excellent. The fries are miniature British pub-style chips, and because of their size, they avoid that mushy-in-the-middle quality.

Cap Jr., who is about to turn five, never passes up a good hot dog. He ordered the Puppy Meal - a smaller dog, a side, a drink, and a dessert (an ice cream cone, or Puppy Chow - Chex mix with peanut butter and chocolate on top). To prevent dessert meltdown, the counter staff gives your little one a Milk-Bone dog biscuit, which he or she can redeem for dessert after finishing the main meal - a fun and thoughtful touch.

Pricing is very reasonable - a bargain, really. A combo meal with a side and drink ranges from $5.35 to $6.65, depending on your choice of dog and toppings.

The only thing standing between The Dog Joint and a perfect five-spot rating is the tiny dining room. The Dog Joint occupies one of the older buildings in uptown Westerville, and while the owners have remodeled it very nicely, there simply isn't enough room for the crush of customers attracted to a high-quality eatery with a unique menu. We were fortunate enough to beat the dinner rush, but I would have enjoyed my meal more without having to watch hungry, impatient people waiting for tables and/or eating standing up. I did notice an outdoor patio with plenty of tables, so when (if?) true spring weather arrives, this shouldn't be an issue. In the meantime, arrive early, or order to go.

I'll definitely go back to The Dog Joint. I've got to try the Aloha, and Cap Jr. wants some Puppy Chow.

UPDATE, 4/5/08: Took Cap Jr. back to the Dog Joint for lunch today and tried the Aloha dog with cheese fries. The Aloha is excellent - the cinnamon, brown sugar, and pineapple give it a unique taste. Skip the cheese on the fries - they're better crispy than gooey and soggy with cheddar. Cap Jr. and I agreed that the egg bun is better than the wheat.

The Dog Joint was even more crowded on this visit, forcing us to sit outside on the patio. Fortunately, it was 60 degrees and sunny. Two visits, two great meals. We'll be back.

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